Once Around the Block

 

A 52” x 70” Sized Quilt

Once Around the Block

 

Supply List:

1 package Charm Squares – 5” squares, 40 pieces (you will need 39)

1 Jelly Roll – 2 ½” strips, 40 pieces

.30 metre for inner border

.50 metre for binding

1.5 metres of 90” (230cm) or wider fabric for back

OR

3 metres of 45” (115cm) fabric for back

60” x 80” piece cotton batting

 

Directions:

All seams are ¼” unless otherwise stated.

Trim all the BATIK charm squares into 5” squares. They may be slightly larger or irregular.

Set aside four 5” squares for the outer border corners

 

  1. Stitch a 2 ½” BATIK strip to one side of a 5” square. Press seams toward the strip & trim excess strip.
  2. Using the same strip, stitch to the second side. Press the seam towards the strip and trim excess.
  3. Using the same strip and stitch to the third side. Press the seam towards the strip and trim excess.
  4. Using the same strip and stitch to the fourth, last side. Press the seam towards the strip and trim excess.

Put aside the “excess” for the Piano Key Border

  1. Continue in this manner until you have stitched a strip to all four sides of each of the 35 – 5” blocks. You will now have 35 – 9” blocks. If your blocks are slightly larger or smaller, that is not a problem, as long as they are all square & same size. Trim all 35 blocks to the same size.
  2. Layout the 35 blocks, 5 across and 7 down. Move them around until you are satisfied that the colours are evenly distributed.
  3. Construct 7 rows of five blocks
  4. Join the 7 rows.
  5. Add the inner border: Cut 6 – 1 ½” wide strips from the inner border fabric. Sew the inner border strip to the short sides first (top & bottom), long sides second.

Press seams to the inner border strip.

  1. Make the Outer “Piano Key” Border: Sew the remaining 2 ½” BATIK strips together along their long sides. Cut these strip units into 5” wide strips
  2. Join enough “Piano Keys” together to make four border strips:

There are 31 “keys” in the 70” sides of the quilt and 22 “keys” in the 54” sides of the quilt.

Stitch a “31 key” border unit to both long sides of the quilt top first.

 

Tip: If the “31 key or the 22 key” border units are not the same measurement as the top, bottom or sides of the quilt top, open some of the seams between the keys and sew them again using a smaller or larger seam allowance.

 

  1. Stitch a 5” charm square to each end of both the “22 key” border unit. These 5” squares will be the border cornerstones. Press the border seams towards the borders.
  2. Optional: Purchase a batik fabric for the border instead of using the remaining 2 ½” strips
  3. Machine or Hand Quilt as desired.
  4. The binding is made from 6 – 2 ½” wide strips.
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Free Motion Quilting – The Secrets of Success

 

 

These notes are a companion to my lecture. It is recommended that you attend my lecture to get the full meaning of the following notes

Below is a list of the Top Tips for Successful Free Motion Quilting. Applying ALL the tips at the same time is the real secret for success.

Let’s get started:

Extension Table – An extension table that attaches to your sewing machine is a must. Your left hand needs a solid flat surface to the left of the needle. The sewing machine’s bed is not wide enough.

Quilting Gloves – A must. After all, it is your hands that control the stitch length. The stitch length will be erratic if your hands slip

Sew Slip- Free Motion Slider: A slippery sheet to cover the bed of the sewing machine. The “Sew Slip” has a non-stick top surface which is bonded to cured silicone. The tacky back holds the “Sew Slip” to your machines surface. “SewSlip” eliminates the drag on your free-motion sewing and quilting projects. Best of all, you don’t need to tape the “SewSlip” down to have it stay where you put it.

Drop the feed Dogs – If you leave them engaged they tend to fight against you when you move the quilt sideways and backwards

The backing and batting should be at least 2” larger all around the outside of the quilt. This will give your hands something to grip. If there is little or no extra batting and backing, you will not be able to do your best stitching around the outside edges of your quilt.

Your frame of mind: If you are a novice, take on this new experience like a five year old kindergartener. Be excited, and proud of every stitch. Be proud of every scribble, as you progress, your scribbles will become calligraphy! Have fun, no negative thoughts allowed!

Like a pilot working towards his license, you need to put in the time. As the hours pile up, so will your skills.

Now that I have convinced you to get started, here are more secrets for success:

 

  1. The machine should sew at about ¾ speed, quite fast. (This can be set on the speed control slider or button) Your hands however should move the quilt at a slightly slower, steady speed.
  2. Engage the needle down function
  3. Bring the bobbin thread to the top of the quilt, hold onto the threads, sew a few stitches, stop, snip the threads and continue to stitch
  4. Your hands must move at a steady but slower speed.
  5. Never let go of the quilt while you are sewing. Don’t lift your hand(s) of the quilt while the needle is going up and down.
  6. Only quilt between your hands, not above your finger tips or below the palms. Simply “STOP” reposition your hands, and continue stitching
  7. Never rotate the quilt while you are stitching. Although you may be practising on a small piece and you see no reason why you shouldn’t rotate the fabric, keep in mind, once you have a large quilt in your machine YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO ROTATE THE QUILT WHILE STITCHING. So don’t develop a habit that will make you feel uncomfortable and awkward.
  8. Tackling a very large quilt in a very small machine: Start at the center of the quilt and stitch towards the right only. Give the quilt a ¼ turn and start back at the center. Repeat a total of four times until you have the center 2/3 of the quilt done. Then quilt the outside perimeter of the quilt in a clockwise manner.
  9. More on the subject of speed: When Quilting to a point or around a corner of a quilting motif such as a star or a flower, do not slow down your speed. How fast you move the quilt compared to how fast you are stitching should not vary. If you do, the machine will place several extra stitches at the point of a star or as you slow down for the curve. This is manifested on the underside, looking like mini French knots of the top thread!
  10. This tip is for those of you who have an older machine. Always remember to put the presser foot down. Every time you stop or pause your quilting, your right hand reaches to lift the presser foot. It is an automatic reaction. When you resume quilting, you may forget to put the presser foot down. Why? #1 you may not remember putting the foot up and #2 the foot looks like it is still DOWN because of the loft of the quilt under the foot. Why is this important? Presser foot down means that the tension is engaged. Presser foot up means NO TENSION ON THE UPPER THREAD. Result? A big jumbled mess of TOP THREAD on the UNDERSIDE of your quilt. My tip, always give the presser foot lifter a quick stroke with your hand before you resume quilting, just to make sure it is down.
  1. Aurifil thread is wonderful for piecing and quilting. I use 50 weight, the finest Aurifil thread if I don’t want my stitching to show much. It is also great for quilting in the ditch and quilting that back tracks over previous stitching, less bulk. The 40 weight (on the green core) is the favourite for free motion machine quilting, the stitching will show just enough and definitely adds texture to the patchwork.  The 28 weight (on the grey core) is heavier and is best for bold quilting, when you want to show off “the stitch.”
  2. The 50 weight on the orange core is the #1 winner for the piecing of your quilt. It is so fine and strong and adds no bulk to the seam. This allows you to press your seams as flat as they can possibly be, adding to the accuracy of your piecing.

 

Happy Quilting!
Carola

Ruler Work – Free Motion Quilting

Thank-you for attending my lecture on getting started with rulers on your domestic sewing machine. I hope that I was able to answer a few questions and inspired you to jump in!

Tips for Getting Started:

  1. An extension table that attaches to your sewing machine is a must. The ruler & your hands both need a solid flat surface to the left of the needle. The sewing machine’s bed is not wide enough.
  1. A slippery sheet to cover the bed of the sewing machine. The “Sew Slip” has a non-stick top surface which is bonded to cured silicone. The tacky back holds the “Sew Slip” to your machines surface. “SewSlip” eliminates the drag on your free-motion sewing and quilting projects. Best of all, you don’t need to tape the “SewSlip” down to have it stay where you put it.
  2. Quilting Gloves are needed to grip the ruler and the quilt
  3. Attach gripper stickers to the underside of the ruler.
  4. There are many different rulers to assist you in your free motion work. Some are curvy, wavey, straight, angled, round, oval, large and small. For anyone just getting started, I recommend the Handi Versa Tool from Handi Quilter. This ruler is a multi-purpose ruler with a different angle and curve on each of its four sides.
  5. Rulers for free motion quilting are thicker than rulers used for cutting fabric with a rotary cutter. They are ¼” thick.
  6. The free motion quilting foot for Ruler Work is also thicker/taller than a standard free motion/darning foot. This foot is a must for ruler work. Standard free motion feet are “flat” (the area of the foot through which the needle passes) a standard foot may slip under the ruler with disastrous results! Important! Due to the height (thickness) of the ruler foot, make sure to NOT put the needle down while the foot is in the up position. The needle and needle bar may crash into the foot with damaging results to the machine, foot and needle!Test test test, your machine’s limitations.
  7. The ruler foot is adjustable in height. It is important to be able to adjust the foot to the height which allows the quilt to move freely under the foot. Secondly the foot can be adjusted to the optimum height for your specific sewing machine and ruler type.
  8. Download a pdf with suggested uses of this ruler: https://vw-handiquilter.storage.googleapis.com/…/HandiVersaTool-Instructions.pdf
  9. Watch this video to see a quick overview of the uses of this ruler: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=loB238ld_Vg
  10. Free Motion Quilting and Ruler Work go hand in hand. Use ruler work to add precise quilting to your Free Motion Quilting projects.
  11. You can purchase a “Generic” Ruler foot for your machine, especially when you sewing machine model’s manufacturer does not offer a Ruler Foot. Simply establish whether your machine is a “HIGH” or “LOW” shank machine. Once you attach the ruler foot to your machine, make certain that the needle will not hit the foot and adjust the height of the foot to suit your machine.
  12. Check out Patsy Thompson’s video on Youtube, she has lots of information about choosing a foot that fits your machine. youtube.com/watch?v=notnPk3A45s
  13. Liz at Janome has lots of information for Janome and Elna machines here:wordpress.com/2014/03/21/part-2-of-feet-accessories-for-elna-ruler-foot-for-free-motion-quilting/
  14. Google Instructions for the “BERNINA RULER PANEL INSTRUCTIONS PDF” to get the free download of the instructions

Tips for using rulers:

  1. Always have the presser foot in the down position before taking the first stitch. See #7 in the paragraph above, “tips for getting started.”
  2. Don’t press too hard on the ruler. Relax, let the little grippers you have placed on the underside of the ruler keep it from slipping. It only makes it harder to move the quilt smoothly.
  3. Use “three point pressure” on the ruler:
  4. Press the ruler down against the quilt B. Press the ruler gently against the ruler foot. C. Press the ruler foot against the ruler.
  5. Adjust the height of the Ruler Foot. There is a screw on the foot that allows you to raise and lower the foot. The foot should be as low as possible, while allowing the quilt to be moved freely under the foot.
  6. The foot will float on the quilt. If your machine is set to make the foot “spring” up and down, turn this function off.
  7. Proceed with caution: Whether the Ruler Foot is specifically designed for your machine or not, make sure to test all possible limitations.

For example, height restrictions: Inspect the back of the Ruler Foot. Notice the clearance at the back of the foot to the quilt. Is there enough room for the ruler to fit against the back of the foot? If not, you will never place the ruler against the back of the foot.

Is the needle aligned with center of the opening in the Ruler Foot? If not, move the needle to the center position.

If the needle is too close the front or back of the Ruler Foot’s opening, consider that this foot is not suitable for your machine. This should not be a problem if you chose the correct foot for your machine.

  1. TEST putting needle down in the fabric when you are ready to quilt: Either turn the fly wheel manually to sink the needle or press the “needle down” key. If the Ruler Foot is in the up position, the needle bar (above the needle) may hit the foot. This can happen because your machine was not designed to function with such a tall foot. Easy and simple remedy: ALWAYS LOWER THE RULER FOOT BEFORE SINKING THE NEEDLE INTO THE QUILT.

DO this test your machine manually, (don’t press the needle down key)If the needle bar hits the foot, always make sure to drop the Ruler Foot into the down position before using the “needle down” function or whenever sinking the needle down into the quilt.

 

 

 

Free Motion Quilting

Free Motion Quilting – Top Tips for Success

 

These notes are a companion to my lecture. It is recommended that you attend my lecture to get the full meaning of the following notes

Extension Table – An extension table that attaches to your sewing machine is a must. Your left hand needs a solid flat surface to the left of the needle. The sewing machine’s bed is not wide enough.

Quilting Gloves – A must. Afterall, it is your hands that control the stitch length. The stitch length will be erratic if your hands slip

Sew Slip- Free Motion Slider:A slippery sheet to cover the bed of the sewing machine. The “Sew Slip” has a non-stick top surface which is bonded to cured silicone. The tacky back holds the “Sew Slip” to your machines surface. “SewSlip” eliminates the drag on your free-motion sewing and quilting projects. Best of all, you don’t need to tape the “SewSlip” down to have it stay where you put it.

Drop the feed Dogs – If you leave them engaged they tend to fight against you when you kove the quilt sideways and backwards

The backing and batting should be at least 2” larger all around the outside of the quilt. This will give your hands something to grip. If there is little to no extra batting and backing, you will not be able to do your best stitching around the outside edges of your quilt.

Your frame of mind: If you are a novice, take on this new experience like a five year old kindergartner. Be excited, and proud of every stitch. Be proud of every scribble, as you progress, your scribbles will become calligraphy!

Like a pilot working towards his license, you need to put in the time. As the hours pile up, so will your skills.

Now that I have convinced you to get started, here are the secrets for success:

  1. The machine must sew at about ¾ speed, quite fast. (This can be set on the speed control slider or button)
  2. Engage the needle down function
  3. Bring the bobbin thread to the top of the quilt, hold onto the threads, sew a few stitches, stop, snip the threads and continue to stitch
  4. Your hands must move at a steady but slower speed.
  5. Never let go of the quilt while you are sewing.
  6. Only quilt between your hands, not above your finger tips or below the palms. Simply “STOP” re-position your hands, and continue stitching
  7. Never rotate the quilt while you are stitching. Although you may be practicing on a small piece and you see no reason why you shouldn’t rotate the fabric, keep in mind, once you have a large quilt in your machine YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO ROTATE THE QUILT WHILE STITCHING. So don’t develop a habit that will make you feel uncomfortable and awkward.
  8. Tackling a very large quilt in a very small machine: Start in the middle of the quilt and stitch towards the right only. Give the quilt a ¼ turn and start back at the middle. Repeat a total of four times until you have the center of the quilt done. Then quilt the remainder of the quilt in a clockwise manner.
  9. More on the subject of speed: When Quilting to a point or around a corner, do not slow down how fast you move the quilt compared to how fast you are stitching. If you do, the machine will place several stitches at the point or at the corner. This is manifested on the underside, looking like mini French knots!

Spring 2017 Classes

http://www.carolasquiltshop.com

Blog: www.carolasquiltshop.wordpress.com

email: carolaquiltshop@gmail.com

604-886-1245

WE HAVE MOVED TO: 624 Farnham Road Gibsons BC

15% discount on all supplies that are required for our classes. Buy your supplies for guild classes or classes held at other quilt shops and get the 15% discount. Classes must be current or in the future only, bring the supply list to qualify for the discount

Scrap Happy & Patchwork Crazy

Join the Club!

We meet every Sunday except Statutory Holidays.

We will try many different successful scrap-busting, fast quilt-making techniques to use up all our growing fabric scrap pile. This class is very casual and intended to be fun. Start now! Sort your scraps into groups: Such as Batiks or regular cottons , baby style/colour, masculine and feminine colour groups. Prepare to share your stash!

Sunday: 11am – 3pm

Drop-in Fee: $5 each Sunday starting September 17th

SUCCESSFUL FREE MOTION QUILTING

Carola Russell

This class is for the following types of quilters:

I have never free motion quilted, ever. I have tried a few times, but no success. I have taken a Free Motion Class, but lack confidence to tackle a special quilt. I am self-taught, need a few pointers. I can free motion quilt but am not satisfied with some of the results. I want to build my confidence. This class starts at the beginning, assuming you know nothing about free motion quilting. There are many tips for successful free motion quilting. Combine all the tips and you will notice your confidence build! 

Saturday February 18th

Class Time: 10am – 4pm

Class Fee: $48.00 Pick up supply list

 

Free Motion Quilting with Rulers – Intermediate

Carola Russell

Let’s ADD RULER WORK to our repetoire! If you have some Free Motion Quilting experience, this intermediate class is for you. You should have taken at least one free motion quilting class (or are self taught) in the past and are ready to hone your skills. Rulers are a great way to perfect “in the ditch” quilting, “navigate around corners”, perfect “channel quilting” and make consistent shapes such as curves and circles. Do not be intimidated by the description, this class is FUN for novices.

You must purchase a “RULER FOOT” and RULER SET before class

Friday February 17th 10:00am – 4:00pm

Class Fee: $48.00 Pick-up supply list

Beginner Quilting

Mary Robinson

How would you like to learn all the fundamentals of Quilting? Accurate cutting, seaming, quilting & finally, binding the edges. Each step along the way you will learn the tricks to success. The tips and techniques you’ll learn will make you a confident quilter!

The first quilt in the series is called Easy Big Blocks. This terrific quilt (42” x 52”) will show off your “Focus Fabric” surrounded by coordinating fabrics. You’ll even make a pair of matching pillowcases.

Four Thursday Nights: Feb. 16th, 23rd, March 2nd and 9th

6:00pm – 8:30pm

Class Fee: $79.95 plus materials (maximum class size: 6)

(Receive a 15% discount on all materials required for classes)

Sampler Quilt – Intermediate Quilt Making

Mary Robinson

You’ve learned the fundamentals of machine piecing & quilting and now it is time to move onto new techniques.

Join Mary for a five-session course that introduces you to the “Sampler Quilt”. Learn new patchwork techniques, making a different traditional block in every session. You choose the quilt size.

Class Fee: $89.95 includes textbook of 25 assorted Sampler Blocks

Five Wednesdays 6:00pm – 8:30pm

March 23rd, 30th, April 6th, 13th, 20th

 

Stitch + Dye = Serendipity Quilt

Carola Russell

In this two-day workshop, we will approach dyeing from a different angle.

Day one: piece together a quilt top using assorted undyed, natural fibre fabrics, cotton, bamboo, linen, rayon and silk. Day two: stitch some more and in the afternoon it is time to dye the pieced quilt top.

All dyes will be ready to apply to your quilt. No mixing, no buckets, no masks, no measuring, no prior knowledge required. A “Low Immersion dyeing technique” will be employed to make a multi coloured quilt top. Simply apply the dye, wait and Voila! You will go home with a gorgeous one of a kind quilt top ready to quilt.

Saturday & Sunday April 22 & 23rd 10:00 to 4:00 and 10:00 – 3:00

Class Fee: $115.00 includes dyes. Pick up supply list

IMPORTANT: PLEASE READ OUR POLICIES

Class Registration Policies

  • Registration is accepted on a first-come-first-served basis.
  • Class Fees and Kit Fees are required at the time of registration. (some kit fees are payable to the teacher)
  • Registration will be accepted:

  • by phone (VISA or MC); or
  • in person (VISA, MC, cash, debit)
  • 5% GST will be added to all class fees
  • Class Fees are non-refundabletwo weeks notice is required for class transfers
  • Minimum Class size: Four, unless otherwise specified
    • In the event that a class is cancelled at Carola’s Quilt Shop, all registrants will be contacted and offered a full refund or an alternate class, your choice of course.
    • Pick up your supply list when you register. Purchase your supplies before class unless your supply list indicates otherwise. Prepare as requested on the supply list.
    • Confirm that the class will run before purchasing supplies
    • Please purchase your supplies at Carola’s Quilt Shop to help keep classes running. You will receive a 15% discount on supplies purchased for our classes.
    • Bring your sewing machine or serger in good running condition, complete with instruction manual and accessories.
    • Arrive at least 15 minutes before class start time.

Easy Bargello Table Runner

This is a very easy table runner to make. The accompanying pictures take you step by step through the cutting and sewing process.

You will need:

6 – 5” wide strips wof – one of six different fabrics (wof= wide of fabric, cut selvage to selvage, measures approx. 42″ in length)

4 – 2 1/2″ wide strips (wof) for binding, set aside

Let’s get started:

Cut each 5″ wide strip in half along the fold, into 2 strips approx. 21″ in length

You will have 2 strips of 6 different fabrics.

Place the strips in order: 1 – 6 and repeat 1 – 6, for a total of 12 strips side by side

Let’s start to sew:  Use ¼” seam allowance throughoutBargello1

Sew all twelve strips together along one long side of the 5” wide strip. You can sort them in a pleasing manner before you start, the 12 strips must remain in the same order.

Press all seams in the same direction. When done you will have one strip set of 12 joined strips the unit will measure about 21” wide and 55” long.

Sew the unit into a tube by sewing the long side of strip number one to the long edge of strip number twelve. Press that seam in the same direction as the other seams.

 

Lay the strip tube on your cutting mat, right side out, smooth and straight. Without too much waste, trim one side with raw edges, to square it up. Starting at the squared up side, cut 8 – 2 ½” wide strips for a total of eight strips.Bargello2

Lay out the eight strip sets side by side. They are still in a tube.

At the top of strip-tube #1, designate a fabric as the first fabric.

At the top of strip-tube #2 fold the first fabric in half.

At the top of strip-tube #3 will have the second fabric’s seam at the top.

At the top of strip-tube #4 will have the second fabric folded in half.

At the top of strip-tube #5 will have the third fabric’s seam at the top.Bargello3

At the top of strip-tube #6 will have the third fabric folded in half

At the top of strip-tube #7 will have the fourth fabric’s seam at the top

At the top of strip-tube #8 will have the fourth fabric folded in half

Tip: Use painter’s tape to number the strips

Cut open strip #1 at the top along the seam (do not open the seam)

Cut open strip #2 along the fold (the middle of the first fabric)

Cut open strip #3 along the seam between the first and second fabric, do this with all eight strip sets.

You will notice that the strip with the “cut seam” snuggles up to the “cut fold” of the strip next to it.Bargello4

No need to pin. However I used 2-3 pins at the end of each seam. This allowed me to ease seams to match before I arrived at the end of the seam with the sewing machine.

Sew the 8 strips into pairs, making sure that the seams of one strip is centered in the middle of the rectangle beside it. Sew the pairs together until you have all eight strips sewn together. Voila!                                                                                   Quilt and bind your table runner as desired

Bargello5

Warning: Making multiples of this table runner in the same fabrics may result in a larger than expected quilt. Add borders to fit any size bed!

Copyright Carola’s Quilt Shop & Thread Company All rights reserved 2016

Use for your own personal enjoyment, do not copy or duplicate in any form. Send your friends here to download their own copy. Enjoy! Carola